Variegated Neon Rainbow // Double Stranded 4ply Sock Blank // RTS
These sock blanks are very limited, as I have none of this sock blank stock left now. If I were to dye sock blanks again, I'd be making the blanks myself on an 80s knitting machine using my beloved Bluefaced Leicester (I bought the machine in, ahem, 2020 for the purposes of making my own sock blanks, and still haven't taught myself how to use it... but I may still, yet...!), so these ones are likely the last I'll ever do on Merino/Nylon as I can't see myself buying anymore as I rarely use the supplier who sells them anymore.
This is a double stranded sock blank - two strands of 4ply are knitted together with a knitting machine to create the 'blank', so you will either have to unwind this to create two 50g balls/cakes, or work directly from the blank using up one strand, and winding the other strand up into a ball as you go. Or, if you're knitting socks on circular needles, knit two at a time!
Each blank has been secured by me by hand with crochet - simply snip the end of the crochet chains, and unravel the crochet to get to the live sock blank stitches (note, one of the blanks just has some 4ply pulled through to secure the stitches on one end, like a lifeline - I thought I'd undone all of the ones I initially did like that and crocheted them instead as I realised it was way more effective, but I missed one!).
These blanks have been dyed rolled up, with a neon rainbow applied sideways on top of the roll in (all neon dyes) Pink on one side, into Orange, Yellow, Green, Aqua Blue, Lavender, and ending with Purple. There are lighter and darker saturation sections, and undyed parts, due to the way they were dyed rolled up. As the dye doesn't reach all the way into the middle, one end of the blanks will have more saturation than the other because of this. I think this will work up incredibly interestingly...! I'd love to keep one for myself so I can see how it'll work up in something, but these babies must earn their keep, so none for me!
Sock blanks create cool heathering where the yarn inside the knitted stitches may not have been as highly penetrated by the dyes, so there will be lighter and darker patches in the strands as you work with them.
Available RTS in:
Double stranded sock blank 4ply 75% Merino / 25% Nylon Superwash 100g, approx. 425m. - note, as this is double stranded, there are 2 x 50g knitted together into the blank.
Dyed with professional acid dyes and rinsed thoroughly. Any neon dyes I use are UV reactive. Shades between batches may vary. As standard, colours may vary between device screens.
Tracey.
These sock blanks are very limited, as I have none of this sock blank stock left now. If I were to dye sock blanks again, I'd be making the blanks myself on an 80s knitting machine using my beloved Bluefaced Leicester (I bought the machine in, ahem, 2020 for the purposes of making my own sock blanks, and still haven't taught myself how to use it... but I may still, yet...!), so these ones are likely the last I'll ever do on Merino/Nylon as I can't see myself buying anymore as I rarely use the supplier who sells them anymore.
This is a double stranded sock blank - two strands of 4ply are knitted together with a knitting machine to create the 'blank', so you will either have to unwind this to create two 50g balls/cakes, or work directly from the blank using up one strand, and winding the other strand up into a ball as you go. Or, if you're knitting socks on circular needles, knit two at a time!
Each blank has been secured by me by hand with crochet - simply snip the end of the crochet chains, and unravel the crochet to get to the live sock blank stitches (note, one of the blanks just has some 4ply pulled through to secure the stitches on one end, like a lifeline - I thought I'd undone all of the ones I initially did like that and crocheted them instead as I realised it was way more effective, but I missed one!).
These blanks have been dyed rolled up, with a neon rainbow applied sideways on top of the roll in (all neon dyes) Pink on one side, into Orange, Yellow, Green, Aqua Blue, Lavender, and ending with Purple. There are lighter and darker saturation sections, and undyed parts, due to the way they were dyed rolled up. As the dye doesn't reach all the way into the middle, one end of the blanks will have more saturation than the other because of this. I think this will work up incredibly interestingly...! I'd love to keep one for myself so I can see how it'll work up in something, but these babies must earn their keep, so none for me!
Sock blanks create cool heathering where the yarn inside the knitted stitches may not have been as highly penetrated by the dyes, so there will be lighter and darker patches in the strands as you work with them.
Available RTS in:
Double stranded sock blank 4ply 75% Merino / 25% Nylon Superwash 100g, approx. 425m. - note, as this is double stranded, there are 2 x 50g knitted together into the blank.
Dyed with professional acid dyes and rinsed thoroughly. Any neon dyes I use are UV reactive. Shades between batches may vary. As standard, colours may vary between device screens.
Tracey.
These sock blanks are very limited, as I have none of this sock blank stock left now. If I were to dye sock blanks again, I'd be making the blanks myself on an 80s knitting machine using my beloved Bluefaced Leicester (I bought the machine in, ahem, 2020 for the purposes of making my own sock blanks, and still haven't taught myself how to use it... but I may still, yet...!), so these ones are likely the last I'll ever do on Merino/Nylon as I can't see myself buying anymore as I rarely use the supplier who sells them anymore.
This is a double stranded sock blank - two strands of 4ply are knitted together with a knitting machine to create the 'blank', so you will either have to unwind this to create two 50g balls/cakes, or work directly from the blank using up one strand, and winding the other strand up into a ball as you go. Or, if you're knitting socks on circular needles, knit two at a time!
Each blank has been secured by me by hand with crochet - simply snip the end of the crochet chains, and unravel the crochet to get to the live sock blank stitches (note, one of the blanks just has some 4ply pulled through to secure the stitches on one end, like a lifeline - I thought I'd undone all of the ones I initially did like that and crocheted them instead as I realised it was way more effective, but I missed one!).
These blanks have been dyed rolled up, with a neon rainbow applied sideways on top of the roll in (all neon dyes) Pink on one side, into Orange, Yellow, Green, Aqua Blue, Lavender, and ending with Purple. There are lighter and darker saturation sections, and undyed parts, due to the way they were dyed rolled up. As the dye doesn't reach all the way into the middle, one end of the blanks will have more saturation than the other because of this. I think this will work up incredibly interestingly...! I'd love to keep one for myself so I can see how it'll work up in something, but these babies must earn their keep, so none for me!
Sock blanks create cool heathering where the yarn inside the knitted stitches may not have been as highly penetrated by the dyes, so there will be lighter and darker patches in the strands as you work with them.
Available RTS in:
Double stranded sock blank 4ply 75% Merino / 25% Nylon Superwash 100g, approx. 425m. - note, as this is double stranded, there are 2 x 50g knitted together into the blank.
Dyed with professional acid dyes and rinsed thoroughly. Any neon dyes I use are UV reactive. Shades between batches may vary. As standard, colours may vary between device screens.
Tracey.
These sock blanks are very limited, as I have none of this sock blank stock left now. If I were to dye sock blanks again, I'd be making the blanks myself on an 80s knitting machine using my beloved Bluefaced Leicester (I bought the machine in, ahem, 2020 for the purposes of making my own sock blanks, and still haven't taught myself how to use it... but I may still, yet...!), so these ones are likely the last I'll ever do on Merino/Nylon as I can't see myself buying anymore as I rarely use the supplier who sells them anymore.
This is a double stranded sock blank - two strands of 4ply are knitted together with a knitting machine to create the 'blank', so you will either have to unwind this to create two 50g balls/cakes, or work directly from the blank using up one strand, and winding the other strand up into a ball as you go. Or, if you're knitting socks on circular needles, knit two at a time!
Each blank has been secured by me by hand with crochet - simply snip the end of the crochet chains, and unravel the crochet to get to the live sock blank stitches (note, one of the blanks just has some 4ply pulled through to secure the stitches on one end, like a lifeline - I thought I'd undone all of the ones I initially did like that and crocheted them instead as I realised it was way more effective, but I missed one!).
These blanks have been dyed rolled up, with a neon rainbow applied sideways on top of the roll in (all neon dyes) Pink on one side, into Orange, Yellow, Green, Aqua Blue, Lavender, and ending with Purple. There are lighter and darker saturation sections, and undyed parts, due to the way they were dyed rolled up. As the dye doesn't reach all the way into the middle, one end of the blanks will have more saturation than the other because of this. I think this will work up incredibly interestingly...! I'd love to keep one for myself so I can see how it'll work up in something, but these babies must earn their keep, so none for me!
Sock blanks create cool heathering where the yarn inside the knitted stitches may not have been as highly penetrated by the dyes, so there will be lighter and darker patches in the strands as you work with them.
Available RTS in:
Double stranded sock blank 4ply 75% Merino / 25% Nylon Superwash 100g, approx. 425m. - note, as this is double stranded, there are 2 x 50g knitted together into the blank.
Dyed with professional acid dyes and rinsed thoroughly. Any neon dyes I use are UV reactive. Shades between batches may vary. As standard, colours may vary between device screens.
Tracey.
Order processing times (delivery cost info below, scroll down)
tldr; current DTO lead times are 1-2 weeks, and fully RTS orders should be packed up within a few days at most as I'm keeping on top of them (note - I don't work on weekends, so this will delay RTS packing a little for orders placed between Friday PM to Monday AM).
I am a neurodivergent creator working with chronic health conditions - I've been running this business since 2017, fulfilling thousands of orders in that time, and I do manage everything well despite occasional health setbacks! Sometimes flare ups may slow me down a bit, so please extend me a little grace to enable me to pace myself if I am feeling more unwell than usual on any given day 🩷
I will of course communicate my expected order processing times to you if I'm having difficulties or if I've had a large volume of orders to work through, but if you're unsure what's happening with your order at any time, please do just email me to ask 🤗
Please also check your junk folder for any shipping confirmation before getting in touch about an overdue order, as some email providers like to put me there.
Current lead times
The current lead time for shipping yarn which is Dyed To Order is 1-2 weeks (unless a more specific preorder date was stated on the product listing).
Anything you purchase which is Ready To Ship will be packed up within a week at most, and posted when I'm next having parcels collected (smaller parcels that will fit in the letterbox may be posted sooner that way, depending on if I can leave the house to do so). I get a couple of collections a week, so if you have just missed one, or you order right before the weekend (I don't work weekends!) this is when the despatch time will be more towards the back end of a week since your order date.
If your order includes any DTO, the whole order will be shipped when the dyed yarn is completed.
Pattern purchases
After ordering, you will receive the PDF via email manually from me. You must ensure the email address you are using is valid as I will be using it to send you the PDF. I will be emailing them at least once a day. Please bear in mind that if you're an international customer with a time difference, I won't be able to email your pattern until I'm awake and out of bed!
Upcoming time off which may impact orders
I have no specifically large amounts of time off booked in at the moment!
I will be taking the day 29th April off to go out for delicious food and beverages, and then to my first music gig in seven years (all of my health issues have kept me away from them - it just became too hard to comprehend coping with a gig - but I think I'm ready to give them another try...! Chuck Ragan should be super flattered that him performing in Newcastle made my brain really want to try experiencing live music again 🥰), but this shouldn't impact orders too much.
Customs/VAT
Customers are responsible for all customs VAT/duties fees on receipt of Goods.
None of my prices include VAT, so you may be charged VAT by your country's customs authorities before the parcel will be released to you, according to the de minimis goods value threshold in your country. I am not in control of this, and I do not control the admin fees you may incur on top of the VAT charges. Please take this into account when ordering.
Delivery information by region
UK orders (exc. Northern Ireland)
UK parcel P&P is currently £4.00 on orders up to £79.99, free postage applies for UK orders over £80. All are sent tracked with Royal Mail.
Unfortunately I am unable to ship to Northern Ireland due to GPSR regulations which implicate NI (due to Brexit) - I'm very sorry to my NI customers.
Europe - no shipping available
I haven't shipped to Europe for a couple of years for various reasons since Brexit, and this is now highly unlikely to start up again in future due to the GPSR regulations - please accept my sincere apologies.
International orders excl. Europe
Please note, orders over 1.5kg may be split into two parcels (or more, if you've ordered an exceptional amount) to allow me to have enough insurance cover on them through Royal Mail. All are sent tracked with Royal Mail.
Below is a table of postage costs based on the weight of your order. I will refund any overage of P&P you paid at the time of ordering after I have generated the postage label (though most of the prices below are at a slight loss to me, so overages are rare).
| Order weight | P&P cost |
| 0g - 250g | £10.00 |
| 251g - 500g | £13.00 |
| 501g - 750g | £15.00 |
| 751g - 1kg | £18.00 |
| 1001g - 2kg | £20.00 |
| 2kg+ | £30.00 |
Order processing times (delivery cost info below, scroll down)
tldr; current DTO lead times are 1-2 weeks, and fully RTS orders should be packed up within a few days at most as I'm keeping on top of them (note - I don't work on weekends, so this will delay RTS packing a little for orders placed between Friday PM to Monday AM).
I am a neurodivergent creator working with chronic health conditions - I've been running this business since 2017, fulfilling thousands of orders in that time, and I do manage everything well despite occasional health setbacks! Sometimes flare ups may slow me down a bit, so please extend me a little grace to enable me to pace myself if I am feeling more unwell than usual on any given day 🩷
I will of course communicate my expected order processing times to you if I'm having difficulties or if I've had a large volume of orders to work through, but if you're unsure what's happening with your order at any time, please do just email me to ask 🤗
Please also check your junk folder for any shipping confirmation before getting in touch about an overdue order, as some email providers like to put me there.
Current lead times
The current lead time for shipping yarn which is Dyed To Order is 1-2 weeks (unless a more specific preorder date was stated on the product listing).
Anything you purchase which is Ready To Ship will be packed up within a week at most, and posted when I'm next having parcels collected (smaller parcels that will fit in the letterbox may be posted sooner that way, depending on if I can leave the house to do so). I get a couple of collections a week, so if you have just missed one, or you order right before the weekend (I don't work weekends!) this is when the despatch time will be more towards the back end of a week since your order date.
If your order includes any DTO, the whole order will be shipped when the dyed yarn is completed.
Pattern purchases
After ordering, you will receive the PDF via email manually from me. You must ensure the email address you are using is valid as I will be using it to send you the PDF. I will be emailing them at least once a day. Please bear in mind that if you're an international customer with a time difference, I won't be able to email your pattern until I'm awake and out of bed!
Upcoming time off which may impact orders
I have no specifically large amounts of time off booked in at the moment!
I will be taking the day 29th April off to go out for delicious food and beverages, and then to my first music gig in seven years (all of my health issues have kept me away from them - it just became too hard to comprehend coping with a gig - but I think I'm ready to give them another try...! Chuck Ragan should be super flattered that him performing in Newcastle made my brain really want to try experiencing live music again 🥰), but this shouldn't impact orders too much.
Customs/VAT
Customers are responsible for all customs VAT/duties fees on receipt of Goods.
None of my prices include VAT, so you may be charged VAT by your country's customs authorities before the parcel will be released to you, according to the de minimis goods value threshold in your country. I am not in control of this, and I do not control the admin fees you may incur on top of the VAT charges. Please take this into account when ordering.
Delivery information by region
UK orders (exc. Northern Ireland)
UK parcel P&P is currently £4.00 on orders up to £79.99, free postage applies for UK orders over £80. All are sent tracked with Royal Mail.
Unfortunately I am unable to ship to Northern Ireland due to GPSR regulations which implicate NI (due to Brexit) - I'm very sorry to my NI customers.
Europe - no shipping available
I haven't shipped to Europe for a couple of years for various reasons since Brexit, and this is now highly unlikely to start up again in future due to the GPSR regulations - please accept my sincere apologies.
International orders excl. Europe
Please note, orders over 1.5kg may be split into two parcels (or more, if you've ordered an exceptional amount) to allow me to have enough insurance cover on them through Royal Mail. All are sent tracked with Royal Mail.
Below is a table of postage costs based on the weight of your order. I will refund any overage of P&P you paid at the time of ordering after I have generated the postage label (though most of the prices below are at a slight loss to me, so overages are rare).
| Order weight | P&P cost |
| 0g - 250g | £10.00 |
| 251g - 500g | £13.00 |
| 501g - 750g | £15.00 |
| 751g - 1kg | £18.00 |
| 1001g - 2kg | £20.00 |
| 2kg+ | £30.00 |
Care instructions
I would always recommend hand-washing in cool water to keep your finished items in good condition for as long as possible, though with any Superwash yarn you can of course pop it into the washing machine if required (I have washed my socks on occasion in the washing machine, they're still looking good colour-wise, but I only do it maybe once or twice a year, doing hand-washes for the most part).
Bleeding and crocking
Before we begin, bleeding and crocking are totally normal (though don't necessarily happen with every colourway or every skein) and can occur with both hand dyed and commercially dyed yarns. They happen when loose dye particles which couldn't heat set into the already-saturated yarn come out in water (bleeding), or onto your hands as you're working with it (crocking).
I rinse as many excess dye particles out of my yarn after it has finished the heat setting process as I can, but due to the way some dye particles behave, there could always be some left behind that will release during the lifetime of the yarn. They may not always come out in that first rinse, despite thorough rinsing before it leaves me and gets to you ❤️
Bleeding: I don't usually encounter any bleeding when I block my yarn swatches, or any finished objects I actually complete in my yarn (using a light amount of Soak, always in cold water), but due to the nature and behaviour of some dyes, and other variables such as the hardness of your water compared to mine, you might find some bleeding may occur when soaking.
You can use a colour-catcher when you are soaking your finished item to try to catch loose dye particles which may bleed out of the yarn.
Crocking: I also don't usually encounter any crocking, but this is said to vary for each crocheter/knitter as per the pH on your hands (and if you've recently used any hand cream). Any dye transferred onto your hands while working with any yarn will wash off with soap.
Sheep welfare
The yarn wholesalers I use are committed to sourcing all of their wool from farms which comply with high animal welfare standards.
My main yarn base - BFL, Bluefaced Leicester - is a British breed of sheep and is all sourced from individual farms in the UK by the British Wool Marketing Board, and graded to ensure its high quality.
Any Merino I use is certified as mulesing free, mainly from Australia, and they source the remainder from South America and South Africa where mulesing is not practiced. Their Kid Mohair is sourced from South Africa, and Alpaca is from Peru from small family owned smallholdings.
Superwash
The Superwash yarns I use are treated using the Hercosett process, and my wholesalers only use reputable companies to superwash their fibres, who hold ISO14001 accreditation and/or engage in best practice with regard to environmental performance and waste water treatment and re-use.
If you have any further questions, don't hesitate to get in touch using the Contact form.
Tracey 🌈
Care instructions
I would always recommend hand-washing in cool water to keep your finished items in good condition for as long as possible, though with any Superwash yarn you can of course pop it into the washing machine if required (I have washed my socks on occasion in the washing machine, they're still looking good colour-wise, but I only do it maybe once or twice a year, doing hand-washes for the most part).
Bleeding and crocking
Before we begin, bleeding and crocking are totally normal (though don't necessarily happen with every colourway or every skein) and can occur with both hand dyed and commercially dyed yarns. They happen when loose dye particles which couldn't heat set into the already-saturated yarn come out in water (bleeding), or onto your hands as you're working with it (crocking).
I rinse as many excess dye particles out of my yarn after it has finished the heat setting process as I can, but due to the way some dye particles behave, there could always be some left behind that will release during the lifetime of the yarn. They may not always come out in that first rinse, despite thorough rinsing before it leaves me and gets to you ❤️
Bleeding: I don't usually encounter any bleeding when I block my yarn swatches, or any finished objects I actually complete in my yarn (using a light amount of Soak, always in cold water), but due to the nature and behaviour of some dyes, and other variables such as the hardness of your water compared to mine, you might find some bleeding may occur when soaking.
You can use a colour-catcher when you are soaking your finished item to try to catch loose dye particles which may bleed out of the yarn.
Crocking: I also don't usually encounter any crocking, but this is said to vary for each crocheter/knitter as per the pH on your hands (and if you've recently used any hand cream). Any dye transferred onto your hands while working with any yarn will wash off with soap.
Sheep welfare
The yarn wholesalers I use are committed to sourcing all of their wool from farms which comply with high animal welfare standards.
My main yarn base - BFL, Bluefaced Leicester - is a British breed of sheep and is all sourced from individual farms in the UK by the British Wool Marketing Board, and graded to ensure its high quality.
Any Merino I use is certified as mulesing free, mainly from Australia, and they source the remainder from South America and South Africa where mulesing is not practiced. Their Kid Mohair is sourced from South Africa, and Alpaca is from Peru from small family owned smallholdings.
Superwash
The Superwash yarns I use are treated using the Hercosett process, and my wholesalers only use reputable companies to superwash their fibres, who hold ISO14001 accreditation and/or engage in best practice with regard to environmental performance and waste water treatment and re-use.
If you have any further questions, don't hesitate to get in touch using the Contact form.
Tracey 🌈