If you would like to anonymously gift a copy, please purchase as many as you would like to gift from the option ‘to gift’ on this listing, and I will increase the quantity available on the free gifted patterns listing. Thank you in advance!
IMPORTANT INFO RE HOW YOU WILL RECEIVE YOUR PATTERN (pattern details are just a bit further down):
How to purchase
After ordering, you will receive the PDF via email manually from me. You must ensure the email address you are using is valid as I will be using it to send you the PDF.
You will receive an order confirmation email first automatically - this will not contain the PDF. I will be emailing them at least once a day, except for when I'm on holiday (please check here for holiday dates). Please remember to check your junk folder.
If you haven't received the email with the attachment from me within 24 hours of ordering (and I'm not on holiday) please do get in touch so I can advise you when it was sent, try sending it again, and investigate if anything has gone awry.
What will I receive?
You will receive a PDF version of the pattern - nothing physical will be sent to you (neither a paper copy, nor an actual shawl... this is a pattern for you to make your own shawl).
An asymmetrical two skein triangular crochet shawl, in four chunky blocks, showcasing your two favourite skeins of yarn ❤️ Indie hand dyed yarn recommended because of the uniqueness it brings, but not essential! You could also use something like WYS Signature 4ply 🥳 Raid your stash and pair up those skeins we all buy one of, then don’t know what to do with, or go on a dopamine-fuelled yarn mission to find new colourways to put together. Also, why not mix your dyers?! I've been using stash from different dyers and it is super good fun to get those orphan skeins worked up.
Technical info and requirements to consider before you buy the pattern
Easy! I honestly believe this is as easy as it gets. I have designed this for you with stress free crocheting in mind. Pattern contains full instructions and photos where required, and there is a little video on my social media showing the special decrease: Facebook, Instagram.
You will need two skeins of 100g 4ply/sock yarn, approx. 400m each: C1 in a semi-solid, and C2 in a variegated/speckled colourway. Note: my design intention is for you to choose yarns that stand out beside each other, but you can adjust this to your own preferences! 🤗 You also don't have to use 2 x 100g skeins, you could choose to use 200g of 20g minis or scraps, or 4 x 50g, and you could also use more than 200g if you wish (I made one with 320g-ish of neon pastel semi-solids in a rainbow, it's wonderful). The shawl shape will easily accommodate more yarn if you like.
Colourways used in the sample were: What Mustard Made 100% BFL 4ply, 100g/400m, in C1 Neon Heart: Oil Slick, and C2 Fractured 🌈
5mm – I like to use Prym’s ergonomic crochet hooks as they have a tapered head; if you struggle with your hook’s head not pulling through easily when working in hdc, give a hook with a tapered head a try!
Scales for weighing your yarn
Needle for sewing in those ends (don’t worry, there are only eight in total! Fewer if you decide to use a magic knot, notes on that are in the pattern instructions)
Stitch holder for when you take it absolutely everywhere with you until you finish it (but not required for actually marking any stitches)
After blocking: 88” wingspan, 23” deep
Gauge isn’t too critical with this being a shawl and not a fitted garment, just note that a difference in gauge will result in a differently sized shawl to my sample. It will not affect the yardage required as you will be weighing your skeins to determine when to change between C1 and C2.
Gauge: 4” = 15 stitches x 16 rows
Gauge before and after blocking for my sample was the same. Note: please do read my notes on blocking at the end of the pattern.
If your gauge is different and your shawl ends up smaller, you can block to suit your size needs (i.e., if you’d like it to be wider and deeper, you could use a blocking mat and pin it out to your preferred size).
Please note that when ordering through this website, the portion of your order which is for the PDF is non-refundable after the PDF has been emailed to you. This does not affect your right to cancel any part of your order which is for yarn before I have shipped it.
Order processing/delivery info
Order processing times (delivery cost info below, scroll down)
Current lead times
The current lead time for shipping yarn which is Dyed To Order is 2-3 weeks (unless a more specific preorder date was stated on the product listing).
Please note, if I hit order capacity, I will close the dyed to order listings down early as there is only a certain amount I can dye due to disabilities ❤️
Anything you have purchased which is Ready To Ship doesn't mean immediate despatch, but it does mean I'll usually get them posted within a week or so for you depending on my order volumes.
Please do allow me some 'wiggle room' with processing your order, for ADHD and chronic health issues (more info below).
After ordering, you will receive the PDF via email manually from me. You must ensure the email address you are using is valid as I will be using it to send you the PDF. I will be emailing them at least once a day, except for whenever I'm on holiday.
Important additional info
Upcoming holidays which may impact orders
No substantial time off is planned at the moment, aside from a day off here and there which won't impact on orders.
Potential health delays to orders
Please do note that I have chronic neurological and musculoskeletal health issues alongside ADHD (what a killer combo! ), which makes running a business a bit more tricky at times, so I occasionally need flexibility in lead time expectations ❤️ As I'm only human, I may also catch a bug now and again and need a couple of unexpected sick days!
I will regularly communicate my expected order processing times if I'm having difficulties and I'm pushing into what I consider 'overdue' territory (usually 3-4 weeks since you placed the order), but if you're unsure what's happening with your order, please do just email me to ask.
Always remember, I am just the one person working on What Mustard Made, and I do my best at all times to work through what I can every working day (unless I'm taking a sick day), always trying to move forwards.
Please check your junk folder for the shipping confirmation before getting in touch about an overdue order, as some email providers like to put me there.
Customers are responsible for all customs VAT/duties fees on receipt of Goods.
None of my prices include VAT, so you may be charged VAT by your country's customs authorities before the parcel will be released to you, according to the goods value threshold in your country. I am not in control of this, and I do not control the admin fees you may incur on top of the VAT charges. Please take this into account when ordering.
Delivery information by region
UK parcel P&P is currently £4.00 on orders up to £59.99, free postage applies for UK orders over £60. All are sent tracked with Royal Mail.
Europe - no shipping available
I am currently unable to ship to Europe, please accept my sincere apologies. If I am able to change this in future, I will in a heartbeat.
PDF patterns can still be bought by European customers as shipping information is not required.
International orders excl. Europe
The P&P costs below have recently been reduced (March '23).
Please note, I will try to keep orders over 2kg in one parcel, but they may be split into multiple parcels if the size goes over the maximum dimensions.
Below is a table of postage costs based on the weight of your order. I will refund any overage of P&P you paid at the time of ordering after I have generated the postage label (though most of the prices below are at a slight loss to me, so overages are unlikely).
|Order weight||P&P cost|
|0g - 250g||£10.00|
|251g - 500g||£13.00|
|501g - 750g||£15.00|
|751g - 1kg||£18.00|
|1001g - 2kg||£20.00|
Yarn Info/Care Instructions
I would always recommend hand-washing in cool water to keep your finished items in good condition for as long as possible, though with any Superwash yarn you can of course pop it into the washing machine if required (I have washed my socks on occasion in the washing machine, they're still looking good colour-wise, but I only do it maybe once or twice a year, doing hand-washes for the most part).
Bleeding and crocking
Before we begin, bleeding and crocking are totally normal (though don't necessarily happen with every colourway or every skein) and can occur with both hand dyed and commercially dyed yarns. They happen when loose dye particles which couldn't heat set into the already-saturated yarn come out in water (bleeding), or onto your hands as you're working with it (crocking).
I rinse as many excess dye particles out of my yarn after it has finished the heat setting process as I can, but due to the way some dye particles behave, there could always be some left behind that will release during the lifetime of the yarn. They may not always come out in that first rinse, despite thorough rinsing before it leaves me and gets to you ❤️
Bleeding: I don't usually encounter any bleeding when I block my yarn swatches, or any finished objects I actually complete in my yarn (using a light amount of Soak, always in cold water), but due to the nature and behaviour of some dyes, and other variables such as the hardness of your water compared to mine, you might find some bleeding may occur when soaking.
You can use a colour-catcher when you are soaking your finished item to try to catch loose dye particles which may bleed out of the yarn.
Crocking: I also don't usually encounter any crocking, but this is said to vary for each crocheter/knitter as per the pH on your hands (and if you've recently used any hand cream). Any dye transferred onto your hands while working with any yarn will wash off with soap.
The yarn wholesalers I use are committed to sourcing all of their wool from farms which comply with high animal welfare standards.
My main yarn base - BFL, Bluefaced Leicester - is a British breed of sheep and is all sourced from individual farms in the UK by the British Wool Marketing Board, and graded to ensure its high quality.
Any Merino I use is certified as mulesing free, mainly from Australia, and they source the remainder from South America and South Africa where mulesing is not practiced. Their Kid Mohair is sourced from South Africa, and Alpaca is from Peru from small family owned smallholdings.
The Superwash yarns I use are treated using the Hercosett process, and my wholesalers only use reputable companies to superwash their fibres, who hold ISO14001 accreditation and/or engage in best practice with regard to environmental performance and waste water treatment and re-use.
If you have any further questions, don't hesitate to get in touch using the Contact form.
Email me at email@example.com, or submit your query here.