Euphoria Embroidery Yarn // RTS

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  • £2.00


Euphoria in embroidery yarn form?! Okay! 🌈

Variegated neon pink, neon yellow, turquoise, the most delicious greens and oranges... It is unapologetically bright....

Each skein is Laceweight BFL Superwash 3g, approx. 24m.  


Gimme the yarn deets!

These embroidery yarns are 2ply 100% BFL (Bluefaced Leicester), 3g in weight, 24m in length, and full of delicious creative possibility. They are Superwash which means they won't felt if you pop them in the washing machine or if you agitate them while hand-washing, but I would recommend treating them gently regardless if you are going to wash your finished pieces, with cool water, so they will look amazing for even longer 😘

They are 2ply and I would not recommend splitting them due to the twist in the ply making this extremely difficult without tangles and knots. Please do not attempt this. As with all yarn, the ply makes the strands stronger together, and the single strands will be extremely fragile and will break, making them unusable.

I would say the yarn equals about three strands of stranded cotton. I have used the yarn alongside the 'traditional' two strands of cotton in a piece and they look absolutely fine alongside each other, the comparison is given only so you can imagine the thickness.

I use a size 24 needle when stitching with this yarn.

I wouldn't recommend using an aida smaller than 14 count for cross stitch or blackwork - I use it with 14 count, it would also work with 12. 16+ will be too small for the thickness of the yarn if you are doing one stitch to one square.

What could I use them for?

Use them for cross stitch (my go-to stitching hobby, I will of course be designing some patterns to use these yarns with over time 🥳), blackwork, modern crewel embroidery, punch needle embroidery, embellishing your clothes, Temari balls, micro crochet, surface stitching over your knits and crochets... I'm sure there are a thousand more uses that I haven't even begun to be aware of yet! 🌈

When stitching with it, I would recommend using 16-18 inches at a time to prevent wearing on the yarn as you pull it through your fabric. Always pull it through slowly to reduce wear, and watch the twist in the yarn as you work with it, as we all inadvertently twist the yarn as we stitch - if it's become too tight and twisty (it may be coiling a bit), let the yarn and needle dangle from your work to let it get back to its 'neutral' state. You may have had to do this with stranded cotton before when it gets a bit tight and twisted (I certainly have) 👌 If the twist is coming 'undone' and the ply looks weaker (you will see the strands aren't twisting around each other as much as they were, and you may feel like the yarn is looking like it wants to break apart, or it might start looking thinner in the stitches) just twist the yarn in the same direction as the ply to put some twist back in again ❤️


How far will 24m go?

A long way! In terms of cross stitch, which is the stitchy medium I know best, you can apparently make approximately 1,750 full cross stitches on 14 count aida with 24m of this yarn, technically... this is based on the figures I found for 24m of cotton thread (without carrying your yarn/thread across the back of the fabric from one part of the pattern to another), and assumes average stitching efficiency, which varies between stitchers, so it will of course vary from person to person, depending on what you're stitching. And actually, wool stretches where cotton doesn't, so I bet if we had a competition between 24m of this yarn versus 24m of stranded cotton, the yarn would win 🥳 

Basically though, will 24m go a long way? Yes, yes it will.


Dyed with professional acid dyes and rinsed thoroughly. All neon dyes I use are UV reactive (will glow under a blacklight).

Shades between batches may vary. Please note that the photographs are representative of the yarns you will receive, and may not be the actual yarns. As standard, colours may vary between device screens.


Please note that I am currently working carefully with a hand injury (taking time off when I need to), so everything is happening a little bit slower - this includes packing ready to ship orders. 


Order processing times (delivery cost info below, scroll down)

I am a neurodivergent creator living and working with chronic health conditions - I've been running this business since 2017, fulfilling thousands of orders in that time, and I mostly manage everything reasonably well despite health setbacks. Sometimes flare ups may slow me down a bit, so please do allow me a little 'wiggle room' for your order, to enable me to pace myself if I am feeling more unwell than usual on any given day 🩷

I will of course communicate my expected order processing times to you if I'm having difficulties or if I've had a large volume of orders to work through, if I find I'm pushing into what I consider 'overdue' territory (usually 3 weeks since you placed the order), but if you're unsure what's happening with your order at any time, please do just email me to ask 🤗 

Please also check your junk folder for any shipping confirmation before getting in touch about an overdue order, as some email providers like to put me there.

Current lead times

The current lead time for shipping yarn which is Dyed To Order is 2-4 weeks (unless a more specific preorder date was stated on the product listing). My average time to post DTO is around 2 weeks after your order, but it could be sooner, or later, depending on the volume of DTO orders I'm working through at any time.

Anything you have purchased which is Ready To Ship doesn't mean immediate despatch, but it does mean I'll usually get them posted within 7-10 days for you. I do usually post them within a week, but I've extended the lead time up to 10 days as I've started listing a bit more RTS stuff recently, so naturally I have more RTS orders to work through! If I've had a little rush of RTS orders all at once, this is where the extended lead time will come in, as there is only so much I can work through in one day, and I'm the only person doing all of the work.

Pattern purchases

After ordering, you will receive the PDF via email manually from me. You must ensure the email address you are using is valid as I will be using it to send you the PDF. I will be emailing them at least once a day. Please bear in mind that if you're an international customer with a time difference, I won't be able to email your pattern until I'm awake and out of bed!

Upcoming holidays which may impact orders 

Nothing planned, maybe a day off here and there which shouldn't impact orders too much!



Customers are responsible for all customs VAT/duties fees on receipt of Goods. 

None of my prices include VAT, so you may be charged VAT by your country's customs authorities before the parcel will be released to you, according to the goods value threshold in your country. I am not in control of this, and I do not control the admin fees you may incur on top of the VAT charges. Please take this into account when ordering.


Delivery information by region

UK orders

UK parcel P&P is currently £4.00 on orders up to £79.99, free postage applies for UK orders over £80. All are sent tracked with Royal Mail.

Europe - no shipping available

I am currently unable to ship to Europe, please accept my sincere apologies. If I am able to change this in future, I will in a heartbeat.

International orders excl. Europe

Please note, I will try to keep orders over 2kg in one parcel, but they may be split into multiple parcels if the size goes over the maximum dimensions.

Below is a table of postage costs based on the weight of your order. I will refund any overage of P&P you paid at the time of ordering after I have generated the postage label (though most of the prices below are at a slight loss to me, so overages are unlikely).

Order weight P&P cost
0g - 250g £10.00
251g - 500g £13.00
501g - 750g £15.00
751g - 1kg £18.00
1001g - 2kg £20.00
2kg+ £30.00

Care instructions

I would always recommend hand-washing in cool water to keep your finished items in good condition for as long as possible, though with any Superwash yarn you can of course pop it into the washing machine if required (I have washed my socks on occasion in the washing machine, they're still looking good colour-wise, but I only do it maybe once or twice a year, doing hand-washes for the most part).

Bleeding and crocking

Before we begin, bleeding and crocking are totally normal (though don't necessarily happen with every colourway or every skein) and can occur with both hand dyed and commercially dyed yarns. They happen when loose dye particles which couldn't heat set into the already-saturated yarn come out in water (bleeding), or onto your hands as you're working with it (crocking).

I rinse as many excess dye particles out of my yarn after it has finished the heat setting process as I can, but due to the way some dye particles behave, there could always be some left behind that will release during the lifetime of the yarn. They may not always come out in that first rinse, despite thorough rinsing before it leaves me and gets to you ❤️

Bleeding: I don't usually encounter any bleeding when I block my yarn swatches, or any finished objects I actually complete in my yarn (using a light amount of Soak, always in cold water), but due to the nature and behaviour of some dyes, and other variables such as the hardness of your water compared to mine, you might find some bleeding may occur when soaking.

You can use a colour-catcher when you are soaking your finished item to try to catch loose dye particles which may bleed out of the yarn. 

Crocking: I also don't usually encounter any crocking, but this is said to vary for each crocheter/knitter as per the pH on your hands (and if you've recently used any hand cream). Any dye transferred onto your hands while working with any yarn will wash off with soap.

Sheep welfare

The yarn wholesalers I use are committed to sourcing all of their wool from farms which comply with high animal welfare standards.

My main yarn base - BFL, Bluefaced Leicester - is a British breed of sheep and is all sourced from individual farms in the UK by the British Wool Marketing Board, and graded to ensure its high quality.

Any Merino I use is certified as mulesing free, mainly from Australia, and they source the remainder from South America and South Africa where mulesing is not practiced. Their Kid Mohair is sourced from South Africa, and Alpaca is from Peru from small family owned smallholdings.


The Superwash yarns I use are treated using the Hercosett process, and my wholesalers only use reputable companies to superwash their fibres, who hold ISO14001 accreditation and/or engage in best practice with regard to environmental performance and waste water treatment and re-use.

If you have any further questions, don't hesitate to get in touch using the Contact form.

Tracey 🌈

Email me at, or submit your query here.