Neon Pastel Rainbow Embroidery Yarn Bundle // 10 x 3g // RTS
This neon pastel rainbow semi-solid gradient contains ten colourways, so it's somewhere in between my usual seven and thirteen skein bundles. All neon dyes I use are UV reactive. There are some separates available here too.
Each skein is Laceweight British BFL Superwash 3g, approx. 24m.
What do I get?
You'll get ten skeins of semi-solid yarn, in a gradient going from Neon Pastel Pink, through to Neon PastelYellow, to Neon Pastel Aqua Blue, to Neon Pastel Purple.
The purple dye 'splits' during the dyeing process, which is why it has dark and lighter patches in the skeins which contain that dye. It's unpredictable and delightful because of this.
Please remember semi-solids are not a full solid colour (hence the 'semi'), and will likely contain variations of the colour within the skein of yarn.
More yarn details
These embroidery yarns are 2ply 100% British BFL (Bluefaced Leicester), 3g in weight, 24m in length, and full of delicious creative possibility. They are Superwash which means they won't felt if you pop them in the washing machine or if you agitate them while hand-washing, but I would recommend treating them gently regardless if you are going to wash your finished pieces, with cool water, so they will look amazing for even longer.
I would not recommend splitting the ply due to the twist in the ply making this extremely difficult without tangles and knots. Please do not attempt this. As with all yarn, the ply makes the strands stronger together, and the single strands will be extremely fragile and will break, making them unusable.
I would say the yarn equals about three strands of stranded cotton. I have used the yarn alongside the 'traditional' two strands of cotton in the past and they look absolutely fine alongside each other, the comparison is given only so you can imagine the thickness.
I use a size 24 needle when stitching with this yarn.
What could I use them for?
Use them for cross stitch (my go-to stitching hobby), modern crewel embroidery, punch needle embroidery, embellishing your clothes, Temari balls, micro crochet, surface stitching over your knits and crochets... I'm sure there are a thousand more uses that I haven't even begun to be aware of yet!
When stitching with it, I would recommend using 16-18 inches at a time to prevent wearing on the yarn as you pull it through your fabric. Always pull it through slowly to reduce wear, and watch the twist in the yarn as you work with it, as we all inadvertently twist the yarn as we stitch - if it's become too tight and twisty (it may be coiling a bit), let the yarn and needle dangle from your work to let it get back to its 'neutral' state. You may have had to do this with stranded cotton before when it gets a bit tight and twisted (I certainly have).
If the twist is coming 'undone' and the ply looks weaker (you will see the strands aren't twisting around each other as much as they were, and you may feel like the yarn is looking like it wants to break apart, or it might start looking thinner in the stitches) just twist the yarn in the same direction as the ply to put some twist back in again.
How far will 24m go?
A long way! In terms of cross stitch, which is the stitchy medium I know best, you can apparently make approximately 1,750 full cross stitches on 14 count aida with 24m of this yarn, technically... this is based on the figures I found for 24m of cotton thread (without carrying your yarn/thread across the back of the fabric from one part of the pattern to another), and assumes average stitching efficiency, which varies between stitchers, so it will of course vary from person to person, depending on what you're stitching.
Basically though, will 24m go a long way? Yes, yes it will.
Dyed with professional acid dyes and rinsed thoroughly. All neon dyes I use are UV reactive. Shades between batches may vary. As standard, colours may vary between device screens.
Tracey.
This neon pastel rainbow semi-solid gradient contains ten colourways, so it's somewhere in between my usual seven and thirteen skein bundles. All neon dyes I use are UV reactive. There are some separates available here too.
Each skein is Laceweight British BFL Superwash 3g, approx. 24m.
What do I get?
You'll get ten skeins of semi-solid yarn, in a gradient going from Neon Pastel Pink, through to Neon PastelYellow, to Neon Pastel Aqua Blue, to Neon Pastel Purple.
The purple dye 'splits' during the dyeing process, which is why it has dark and lighter patches in the skeins which contain that dye. It's unpredictable and delightful because of this.
Please remember semi-solids are not a full solid colour (hence the 'semi'), and will likely contain variations of the colour within the skein of yarn.
More yarn details
These embroidery yarns are 2ply 100% British BFL (Bluefaced Leicester), 3g in weight, 24m in length, and full of delicious creative possibility. They are Superwash which means they won't felt if you pop them in the washing machine or if you agitate them while hand-washing, but I would recommend treating them gently regardless if you are going to wash your finished pieces, with cool water, so they will look amazing for even longer.
I would not recommend splitting the ply due to the twist in the ply making this extremely difficult without tangles and knots. Please do not attempt this. As with all yarn, the ply makes the strands stronger together, and the single strands will be extremely fragile and will break, making them unusable.
I would say the yarn equals about three strands of stranded cotton. I have used the yarn alongside the 'traditional' two strands of cotton in the past and they look absolutely fine alongside each other, the comparison is given only so you can imagine the thickness.
I use a size 24 needle when stitching with this yarn.
What could I use them for?
Use them for cross stitch (my go-to stitching hobby), modern crewel embroidery, punch needle embroidery, embellishing your clothes, Temari balls, micro crochet, surface stitching over your knits and crochets... I'm sure there are a thousand more uses that I haven't even begun to be aware of yet!
When stitching with it, I would recommend using 16-18 inches at a time to prevent wearing on the yarn as you pull it through your fabric. Always pull it through slowly to reduce wear, and watch the twist in the yarn as you work with it, as we all inadvertently twist the yarn as we stitch - if it's become too tight and twisty (it may be coiling a bit), let the yarn and needle dangle from your work to let it get back to its 'neutral' state. You may have had to do this with stranded cotton before when it gets a bit tight and twisted (I certainly have).
If the twist is coming 'undone' and the ply looks weaker (you will see the strands aren't twisting around each other as much as they were, and you may feel like the yarn is looking like it wants to break apart, or it might start looking thinner in the stitches) just twist the yarn in the same direction as the ply to put some twist back in again.
How far will 24m go?
A long way! In terms of cross stitch, which is the stitchy medium I know best, you can apparently make approximately 1,750 full cross stitches on 14 count aida with 24m of this yarn, technically... this is based on the figures I found for 24m of cotton thread (without carrying your yarn/thread across the back of the fabric from one part of the pattern to another), and assumes average stitching efficiency, which varies between stitchers, so it will of course vary from person to person, depending on what you're stitching.
Basically though, will 24m go a long way? Yes, yes it will.
Dyed with professional acid dyes and rinsed thoroughly. All neon dyes I use are UV reactive. Shades between batches may vary. As standard, colours may vary between device screens.
Tracey.
This neon pastel rainbow semi-solid gradient contains ten colourways, so it's somewhere in between my usual seven and thirteen skein bundles. All neon dyes I use are UV reactive. There are some separates available here too.
Each skein is Laceweight British BFL Superwash 3g, approx. 24m.
What do I get?
You'll get ten skeins of semi-solid yarn, in a gradient going from Neon Pastel Pink, through to Neon PastelYellow, to Neon Pastel Aqua Blue, to Neon Pastel Purple.
The purple dye 'splits' during the dyeing process, which is why it has dark and lighter patches in the skeins which contain that dye. It's unpredictable and delightful because of this.
Please remember semi-solids are not a full solid colour (hence the 'semi'), and will likely contain variations of the colour within the skein of yarn.
More yarn details
These embroidery yarns are 2ply 100% British BFL (Bluefaced Leicester), 3g in weight, 24m in length, and full of delicious creative possibility. They are Superwash which means they won't felt if you pop them in the washing machine or if you agitate them while hand-washing, but I would recommend treating them gently regardless if you are going to wash your finished pieces, with cool water, so they will look amazing for even longer.
I would not recommend splitting the ply due to the twist in the ply making this extremely difficult without tangles and knots. Please do not attempt this. As with all yarn, the ply makes the strands stronger together, and the single strands will be extremely fragile and will break, making them unusable.
I would say the yarn equals about three strands of stranded cotton. I have used the yarn alongside the 'traditional' two strands of cotton in the past and they look absolutely fine alongside each other, the comparison is given only so you can imagine the thickness.
I use a size 24 needle when stitching with this yarn.
What could I use them for?
Use them for cross stitch (my go-to stitching hobby), modern crewel embroidery, punch needle embroidery, embellishing your clothes, Temari balls, micro crochet, surface stitching over your knits and crochets... I'm sure there are a thousand more uses that I haven't even begun to be aware of yet!
When stitching with it, I would recommend using 16-18 inches at a time to prevent wearing on the yarn as you pull it through your fabric. Always pull it through slowly to reduce wear, and watch the twist in the yarn as you work with it, as we all inadvertently twist the yarn as we stitch - if it's become too tight and twisty (it may be coiling a bit), let the yarn and needle dangle from your work to let it get back to its 'neutral' state. You may have had to do this with stranded cotton before when it gets a bit tight and twisted (I certainly have).
If the twist is coming 'undone' and the ply looks weaker (you will see the strands aren't twisting around each other as much as they were, and you may feel like the yarn is looking like it wants to break apart, or it might start looking thinner in the stitches) just twist the yarn in the same direction as the ply to put some twist back in again.
How far will 24m go?
A long way! In terms of cross stitch, which is the stitchy medium I know best, you can apparently make approximately 1,750 full cross stitches on 14 count aida with 24m of this yarn, technically... this is based on the figures I found for 24m of cotton thread (without carrying your yarn/thread across the back of the fabric from one part of the pattern to another), and assumes average stitching efficiency, which varies between stitchers, so it will of course vary from person to person, depending on what you're stitching.
Basically though, will 24m go a long way? Yes, yes it will.
Dyed with professional acid dyes and rinsed thoroughly. All neon dyes I use are UV reactive. Shades between batches may vary. As standard, colours may vary between device screens.
Tracey.
This neon pastel rainbow semi-solid gradient contains ten colourways, so it's somewhere in between my usual seven and thirteen skein bundles. All neon dyes I use are UV reactive. There are some separates available here too.
Each skein is Laceweight British BFL Superwash 3g, approx. 24m.
What do I get?
You'll get ten skeins of semi-solid yarn, in a gradient going from Neon Pastel Pink, through to Neon PastelYellow, to Neon Pastel Aqua Blue, to Neon Pastel Purple.
The purple dye 'splits' during the dyeing process, which is why it has dark and lighter patches in the skeins which contain that dye. It's unpredictable and delightful because of this.
Please remember semi-solids are not a full solid colour (hence the 'semi'), and will likely contain variations of the colour within the skein of yarn.
More yarn details
These embroidery yarns are 2ply 100% British BFL (Bluefaced Leicester), 3g in weight, 24m in length, and full of delicious creative possibility. They are Superwash which means they won't felt if you pop them in the washing machine or if you agitate them while hand-washing, but I would recommend treating them gently regardless if you are going to wash your finished pieces, with cool water, so they will look amazing for even longer.
I would not recommend splitting the ply due to the twist in the ply making this extremely difficult without tangles and knots. Please do not attempt this. As with all yarn, the ply makes the strands stronger together, and the single strands will be extremely fragile and will break, making them unusable.
I would say the yarn equals about three strands of stranded cotton. I have used the yarn alongside the 'traditional' two strands of cotton in the past and they look absolutely fine alongside each other, the comparison is given only so you can imagine the thickness.
I use a size 24 needle when stitching with this yarn.
What could I use them for?
Use them for cross stitch (my go-to stitching hobby), modern crewel embroidery, punch needle embroidery, embellishing your clothes, Temari balls, micro crochet, surface stitching over your knits and crochets... I'm sure there are a thousand more uses that I haven't even begun to be aware of yet!
When stitching with it, I would recommend using 16-18 inches at a time to prevent wearing on the yarn as you pull it through your fabric. Always pull it through slowly to reduce wear, and watch the twist in the yarn as you work with it, as we all inadvertently twist the yarn as we stitch - if it's become too tight and twisty (it may be coiling a bit), let the yarn and needle dangle from your work to let it get back to its 'neutral' state. You may have had to do this with stranded cotton before when it gets a bit tight and twisted (I certainly have).
If the twist is coming 'undone' and the ply looks weaker (you will see the strands aren't twisting around each other as much as they were, and you may feel like the yarn is looking like it wants to break apart, or it might start looking thinner in the stitches) just twist the yarn in the same direction as the ply to put some twist back in again.
How far will 24m go?
A long way! In terms of cross stitch, which is the stitchy medium I know best, you can apparently make approximately 1,750 full cross stitches on 14 count aida with 24m of this yarn, technically... this is based on the figures I found for 24m of cotton thread (without carrying your yarn/thread across the back of the fabric from one part of the pattern to another), and assumes average stitching efficiency, which varies between stitchers, so it will of course vary from person to person, depending on what you're stitching.
Basically though, will 24m go a long way? Yes, yes it will.
Dyed with professional acid dyes and rinsed thoroughly. All neon dyes I use are UV reactive. Shades between batches may vary. As standard, colours may vary between device screens.
Tracey.
Order processing times (delivery cost info below, scroll down)
tldr; dyed to order lead times are 1-2 weeks, and ready to ship orders will be packed within a week at most (usually within a couple of days).
Xmas delivery info - the cut-offs below are only relevant if you want your order to attempt to be delivered before Xmas day (obviously postal services are stretched at this time, and I am not in control of any delays once your parcel is on its way to you, so if I've posted before my self-imposed cut-off date and it doesn't reach you, this is not my fault).
If your order is for a gift and you don't mind if it's a bit late, or if it's nothing to do with Xmas at all, just order as usual if the cut-offs have passed! I'll be working normally throughout December, so will be fulfilling orders as normal (in line with my lead times) regardless of what the date is.
- UK ready to ship orders (fully 100% RTS, no DTO in your order) must be placed by 15th Dec;
- UK dyed to order must be placed by 9th Dec;
- International ready to ship (fully 100% RTS, no DTO in your order) must be placed by 10th Dec;
- International dyed to order must be placed by 3rd Dec.
I am a neurodivergent sole trader working alongside dynamic chronic health conditions - I've been running this business since 2017, fulfilling thousands of orders in that time, and I do manage everything well despite occasional health setbacks 🥳 Sometimes flare ups may slow me down a bit, so please extend me a little grace to enable me to pace myself 🩷
I will of course email you if I'm having difficulties or if I've had a large volume of orders to work through which has increased processing times, but if you're unsure what's happening with your order at any time, please do just email me to ask 🤗
Please also check your junk folder for any shipping confirmation before getting in touch about an overdue order, as some email providers like to put me there.
Current lead times
The current lead time for shipping yarn which is Dyed To Order is 1-2 weeks (unless a more specific preorder date was stated on the product listing).
Anything you purchase which is Ready To Ship will usually be packed up within a week (I usually try to pack and post them within a couple of days, but it may take longer if I have high order volumes, or if you order right before the weekend this will extend your lead time, as I don't work on weekends!).
If your order includes any DTO, the whole order will be shipped when the dyed yarn is completed.
Pattern purchases
After ordering, you will receive the PDF via email manually from me. You must ensure the email address you are using is valid as I will be using it to send you the PDF. I will be emailing them at least once a day. Please bear in mind that if you're an international customer with a time difference, I won't be able to email your pattern until I'm awake and out of bed!
Upcoming time off which may impact orders
No time off planned until a few days off between 24th Dec - 1st Jan.
Customs duties
USA customers: duties are now included and paid up front on despatch of your order (excluding Gift Vouchers and digital patterns). I am using PDDP (Postal Delivery Duties Paid) with Royal Mail. You will not incur any further charges when the parcel reaches the USA - all tariff duties will have been paid up front.
All other international customers: tariffs/duties are not included - you are responsible for paying all customs duties and fees to your government on receipt of Goods. You may be charged duties by your country's customs authorities before the parcel will be released to you, according to the de minimis goods value threshold in your country. I am not in control of this, or of the admin fees which may be charged on top of the duties. Please take this into account when ordering, thank you!
(I am unable to offer PDDP to other countries I ship to at present, but if Royal Mail introduce it for your country, I will update the info here.)
All goods are made in UK unless stated otherwise - this only applies to products I have bought in from other creatives, for bundles or Advents for example.
Delivery information by region
UK orders (exc. Northern Ireland)
UK parcel P&P is currently £5.00 on orders up to £49.99, free postage applies for UK orders over £50. All are sent tracked with Royal Mail.
Large orders may be split into multiple parcels to allow me to find the best insurance-cover-to-postage-cost ratio for the value of your Goods (sometimes a single parcel with Special Delivery is the best way though, so multiple parcels won’t always be the case). I will email you in advance if I’m considering doing this for your order.
Unfortunately I am unable to ship to Northern Ireland due to GPSR regulations which implicate NI (due to Brexit) - many apologies to my NI customers.
Europe - no shipping available
I haven't shipped to Europe for a few years for various reasons since Brexit, and this is now highly unlikely to start up again in future due to the GPSR regulations - please accept my sincere apologies.
International orders excl. Europe
Large orders may be split into multiple parcels to allow me to have enough insurance cover on them through Royal Mail. All parcels are sent tracked with Royal Mail.
Below is a table of postage costs for all international customers based on the weight of your order.
| Order weight | P&P cost |
| 0g - 250g | £12.00 |
| 251g - 500g | £14.00 |
| 501g - 750g | £16.00 |
| 751g - 1kg | £18.00 |
| 1001g - 2kg | £20.00 |
| 2kg+ | £25.00 |
Order processing times (delivery cost info below, scroll down)
tldr; dyed to order lead times are 1-2 weeks, and ready to ship orders will be packed within a week at most (usually within a couple of days).
Xmas delivery info - the cut-offs below are only relevant if you want your order to attempt to be delivered before Xmas day (obviously postal services are stretched at this time, and I am not in control of any delays once your parcel is on its way to you, so if I've posted before my self-imposed cut-off date and it doesn't reach you, this is not my fault).
If your order is for a gift and you don't mind if it's a bit late, or if it's nothing to do with Xmas at all, just order as usual if the cut-offs have passed! I'll be working normally throughout December, so will be fulfilling orders as normal (in line with my lead times) regardless of what the date is.
- UK ready to ship orders (fully 100% RTS, no DTO in your order) must be placed by 15th Dec;
- UK dyed to order must be placed by 9th Dec;
- International ready to ship (fully 100% RTS, no DTO in your order) must be placed by 10th Dec;
- International dyed to order must be placed by 3rd Dec.
I am a neurodivergent sole trader working alongside dynamic chronic health conditions - I've been running this business since 2017, fulfilling thousands of orders in that time, and I do manage everything well despite occasional health setbacks 🥳 Sometimes flare ups may slow me down a bit, so please extend me a little grace to enable me to pace myself 🩷
I will of course email you if I'm having difficulties or if I've had a large volume of orders to work through which has increased processing times, but if you're unsure what's happening with your order at any time, please do just email me to ask 🤗
Please also check your junk folder for any shipping confirmation before getting in touch about an overdue order, as some email providers like to put me there.
Current lead times
The current lead time for shipping yarn which is Dyed To Order is 1-2 weeks (unless a more specific preorder date was stated on the product listing).
Anything you purchase which is Ready To Ship will usually be packed up within a week (I usually try to pack and post them within a couple of days, but it may take longer if I have high order volumes, or if you order right before the weekend this will extend your lead time, as I don't work on weekends!).
If your order includes any DTO, the whole order will be shipped when the dyed yarn is completed.
Pattern purchases
After ordering, you will receive the PDF via email manually from me. You must ensure the email address you are using is valid as I will be using it to send you the PDF. I will be emailing them at least once a day. Please bear in mind that if you're an international customer with a time difference, I won't be able to email your pattern until I'm awake and out of bed!
Upcoming time off which may impact orders
No time off planned until a few days off between 24th Dec - 1st Jan.
Customs duties
USA customers: duties are now included and paid up front on despatch of your order (excluding Gift Vouchers and digital patterns). I am using PDDP (Postal Delivery Duties Paid) with Royal Mail. You will not incur any further charges when the parcel reaches the USA - all tariff duties will have been paid up front.
All other international customers: tariffs/duties are not included - you are responsible for paying all customs duties and fees to your government on receipt of Goods. You may be charged duties by your country's customs authorities before the parcel will be released to you, according to the de minimis goods value threshold in your country. I am not in control of this, or of the admin fees which may be charged on top of the duties. Please take this into account when ordering, thank you!
(I am unable to offer PDDP to other countries I ship to at present, but if Royal Mail introduce it for your country, I will update the info here.)
All goods are made in UK unless stated otherwise - this only applies to products I have bought in from other creatives, for bundles or Advents for example.
Delivery information by region
UK orders (exc. Northern Ireland)
UK parcel P&P is currently £5.00 on orders up to £49.99, free postage applies for UK orders over £50. All are sent tracked with Royal Mail.
Large orders may be split into multiple parcels to allow me to find the best insurance-cover-to-postage-cost ratio for the value of your Goods (sometimes a single parcel with Special Delivery is the best way though, so multiple parcels won’t always be the case). I will email you in advance if I’m considering doing this for your order.
Unfortunately I am unable to ship to Northern Ireland due to GPSR regulations which implicate NI (due to Brexit) - many apologies to my NI customers.
Europe - no shipping available
I haven't shipped to Europe for a few years for various reasons since Brexit, and this is now highly unlikely to start up again in future due to the GPSR regulations - please accept my sincere apologies.
International orders excl. Europe
Large orders may be split into multiple parcels to allow me to have enough insurance cover on them through Royal Mail. All parcels are sent tracked with Royal Mail.
Below is a table of postage costs for all international customers based on the weight of your order.
| Order weight | P&P cost |
| 0g - 250g | £12.00 |
| 251g - 500g | £14.00 |
| 501g - 750g | £16.00 |
| 751g - 1kg | £18.00 |
| 1001g - 2kg | £20.00 |
| 2kg+ | £25.00 |
Care instructions
I would always recommend hand-washing in cool water to keep your finished items in good condition for as long as possible, though with any Superwash yarn you can of course pop it into the washing machine if required (I have washed my socks on occasion in the washing machine, they're still looking good colour-wise, but I only do it maybe once or twice a year, doing hand-washes for the most part).
Bleeding and crocking
Before we begin, bleeding and crocking are totally normal (though don't necessarily happen with every colourway or every skein) and can occur with both hand dyed and commercially dyed yarns. They happen when loose dye particles which couldn't heat set into the already-saturated yarn come out in water (bleeding), or onto your hands as you're working with it (crocking).
I rinse as many excess dye particles out of my yarn after it has finished the heat setting process as I can, but due to the way some dye particles behave, there could always be some left behind that will release during the lifetime of the yarn. They may not always come out in that first rinse, despite thorough rinsing before it leaves me and gets to you ❤️
Bleeding: I don't usually encounter any bleeding when I block my yarn swatches, or any finished objects I actually complete in my yarn (using a light amount of Soak, always in cold water), but due to the nature and behaviour of some dyes, and other variables such as the hardness of your water compared to mine, you might find some bleeding may occur when soaking.
You can use a colour-catcher when you are soaking your finished item to try to catch loose dye particles which may bleed out of the yarn.
Crocking: I also don't usually encounter any crocking, but this is said to vary for each crocheter/knitter as per the pH on your hands (and if you've recently used any hand cream). Any dye transferred onto your hands while working with any yarn will wash off with soap.
Sheep welfare
The yarn wholesalers I use are committed to sourcing all of their wool from farms which comply with high animal welfare standards.
My main yarn base - BFL, Bluefaced Leicester - is a British breed of sheep and is all sourced from individual farms in the UK by the British Wool Marketing Board, and graded to ensure its high quality.
Any Merino I use is certified as mulesing free, mainly from Australia, and they source the remainder from South America and South Africa where mulesing is not practiced. Their Kid Mohair is sourced from South Africa, and Alpaca is from Peru from small family owned smallholdings.
Superwash
The Superwash yarns I use are treated using the Hercosett process, and my wholesalers only use reputable companies to superwash their fibres, who hold ISO14001 accreditation and/or engage in best practice with regard to environmental performance and waste water treatment and re-use.
If you have any further questions, don't hesitate to get in touch using the Contact form.
Tracey 🌈
Care instructions
I would always recommend hand-washing in cool water to keep your finished items in good condition for as long as possible, though with any Superwash yarn you can of course pop it into the washing machine if required (I have washed my socks on occasion in the washing machine, they're still looking good colour-wise, but I only do it maybe once or twice a year, doing hand-washes for the most part).
Bleeding and crocking
Before we begin, bleeding and crocking are totally normal (though don't necessarily happen with every colourway or every skein) and can occur with both hand dyed and commercially dyed yarns. They happen when loose dye particles which couldn't heat set into the already-saturated yarn come out in water (bleeding), or onto your hands as you're working with it (crocking).
I rinse as many excess dye particles out of my yarn after it has finished the heat setting process as I can, but due to the way some dye particles behave, there could always be some left behind that will release during the lifetime of the yarn. They may not always come out in that first rinse, despite thorough rinsing before it leaves me and gets to you ❤️
Bleeding: I don't usually encounter any bleeding when I block my yarn swatches, or any finished objects I actually complete in my yarn (using a light amount of Soak, always in cold water), but due to the nature and behaviour of some dyes, and other variables such as the hardness of your water compared to mine, you might find some bleeding may occur when soaking.
You can use a colour-catcher when you are soaking your finished item to try to catch loose dye particles which may bleed out of the yarn.
Crocking: I also don't usually encounter any crocking, but this is said to vary for each crocheter/knitter as per the pH on your hands (and if you've recently used any hand cream). Any dye transferred onto your hands while working with any yarn will wash off with soap.
Sheep welfare
The yarn wholesalers I use are committed to sourcing all of their wool from farms which comply with high animal welfare standards.
My main yarn base - BFL, Bluefaced Leicester - is a British breed of sheep and is all sourced from individual farms in the UK by the British Wool Marketing Board, and graded to ensure its high quality.
Any Merino I use is certified as mulesing free, mainly from Australia, and they source the remainder from South America and South Africa where mulesing is not practiced. Their Kid Mohair is sourced from South Africa, and Alpaca is from Peru from small family owned smallholdings.
Superwash
The Superwash yarns I use are treated using the Hercosett process, and my wholesalers only use reputable companies to superwash their fibres, who hold ISO14001 accreditation and/or engage in best practice with regard to environmental performance and waste water treatment and re-use.
If you have any further questions, don't hesitate to get in touch using the Contact form.
Tracey 🌈